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Instructions


Belt Adjustment 
   

How to adjust your belts



 



Belt Replacement 
   

How to replace worn out belts



 



Chain Care 
   



Chain Lubrication & Adjustment


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Carb Adjustment 
   


How to adjust the carb


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Cleaning the Air Filter 
   


How to Clean the Air Filter


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Adjusting the Brakes 
   



How to adjust the brakes


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Tires 
   


How to check for proper tire pressures


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Rocket Key - Timing Advance Key Installation 
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Installation Instructions
1) Remove engine
2) Remove flywheel cover
3) Remove flywheel - flywheel puller required, but not available from ADA
4) Remove stock woodruff key from crankshaft
5) Wipe end of crankshaft clean
7) Apply a small amount of grease to crankshaft end and keyway
8) Install the Advance Key with the offset on the left side (towards exhaust)
9) Re-install flywheel, lining up the keyway in the flywheel with the Advance Key
10) Press flywheel on as far as possible by hand, it may be tight going onto Advance Key
11) Install flywheel nut and tighten
12) Re-install fan cover
13) Re-install engine onto scooter
*NOTE: Advance Key replaces the stock woodruff key

Steering Stem Installation 
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1) Remove throttle lever, brake lever, and kill switch from stock handlebars.
2) Cut the stock handle pole to the desired length. Add 2” for the stem when it’s installed. Example:
if you want your bars to be 3” lower than stock, cut a total of 5” measuring from the top of the stock
bars.
3) Mount the handle bars into the steering stem. Slide the stem onto the handle pole. Make sure to
align the bars and the front wheel carefully.
4) Using a 1/4” drill bit, drill one of the holes in the steering stem through one side of the pole. Now
drill from the other side. Now install one of the bolts to hold the stem in place while you drill the holes
for the last bolt.
5) For final assembly, remove the stem and apply a bead of silicone to the inside of the stem near
the top. Now place the stem back onto the pole and secure with the bolts, washers, and nuts.
Install and tighten the handlebars. Re-install the brake and throttle lever. Install the new kill switch
onto the bars and plug it into the wire where the stock kill switch plugged in.
6) Make sure all levers and the kill switch are operating properly. Your done!

Juice Box Installation 
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Billet Aluminum Tuned Boost Box for Tanaka 35 & 40cc Engines

Note: If installing on the 35cc engine, you will need to install the oringed plug inside the Juice Box to accommodate

the smaller volume 35cc engine. To do this, very carefully use a 2.5mm allen wrench to remove the 5

recessed allen bolts from the backside of the Juice Box. Install the plug in the circular pocket in the corner.

Make sure all orings are still in place and re-assemble the Juice Box.

1) Remove carburetor and intake manifold.

2) Using new gaskets and bolts, install Juice Box using plastic spacer between box and cylinder. Be sure to

use a gasket between cylinder and spacer, spacer and Juice Box, and Juice Box and carb.

3) Carburetor tuning may be required for maximum performance. In our testing a leaner setting was required.

Ultimately, it is your responsibility for proper carb tuning.

Performance benefits:

Improved throttle response, quicker acceleration, and overall performance.

Can increase top speed.

Reduces intake noise.

Purpose:

Acts as a tuned reservoir for the fuel/air mixture, allowing the engine to quickly draw on it.



BladeZ/Tanaka HP Carb Installation Instructions 
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BladeZ/Tanaka HP Carb Installation Instructions

Note: This hp carburetor installs and operates the same as the stock one. So, pay attention when removing the stock carburetor

as this will help with installing the hp carburetor kit.

Step 1: Empty all gas from fuel tank and pump primer bulb on stock carb to purge fuel from carb.

Step 2: Remove the stock carb and intake manifold. Disconnect throttle cable from stock carb and unhook fuel lines. Wipe cylinder

surface clean.

Step 3: Install the billet intake manifold using the composite spacer between the manifold and the cylinder. Make sure to use a gasket

between each surface. Make sure to line up the small hole in the bottom of the gasket with the small hole in the cylinder. The

manifold and spacer must also line up with the hole. Use the supplied 5x25mm allen bolts to mount the manifold and spacer. It is

recommended to use Lock-tite on the bolts that hold the manifold on.

Step 4: Bolt the HP carb onto the manifold, with the primer bulb facing down (same as stock), using the stock screws. You can use

either your stock air filter or an aftermarket filter/velocity stack. Make sure to use the supplied gasket between the carb and the

manifold. On the 40cc, use the supplied 5x50mm allen bolts with the lock and flat washers to mount the HP carb. The 35cc will use

the stock bolts.

Step 5: Connect the throttle cable just as it was connected to the stock carburetor. Make sure that the throttle operation is smooth

and it returns to a closed position.

Step 6: 35cc only: You will need to remove the fuel tank and drill an 11/32” hole for the required return line. Find a good location

that will not interfere with the routing of the fuel line to the carb. Beside or in front of the existing one will work. Once the return

line is installed and the fuel tank is re-mounted, you can install the fuel lines. Install the fuel lines with the stock existing line on the

larger multi-barbed fitting and the newly installed return line on the fitting on the 90° single barbed fitting out the side of the carb.

Step 6: 40cc only: Install the fuel lines with the black line on the larger multi-barbed fitting and the clear line on the fitting on the

90° single barbed fitting out the side of the carb.

Step 7: You can now re-fill the fuel tank. Pump the fuel circulation bulb on the bottom of the carb until you see fuel in the bulb and

fuel going back to the gas tank thru the yellow fuel line. Double check the operation of your throttle again.

Step 8: Set the adjustment screws as follows: High speed 1-3/4 turns out, low speed 1 turn out. To set the high and low speed,

turn them all the way in just until they stop, then back them out the suggested amount. The high speed is the black slotted screw

that sticks out the side of the carb. The low speed screw is located in the center of the throttle fulcrum at the top of the carb, next to

the swivel where the cable connects.. The high speed needs to be adjusted for peak speed/rpm while riding, then turn it out 1/16 of

a turn. Never adjust the high speed by free revving with the back wheel off of the ground and holding the throttle wide open while

adjusting the screw. The low speed should be adjusted for good throttle response when initially accelerating. As you adjust your low

speed setting, it may affect idle speed. Idle is adjusted by turning the screw that acts as a stop for the throttle fulcrum.

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Contents:

1 - 15mm carb

1 - Billet intake manifold

1 - Composite manifold spacer

2 - Intake gasket

1 - Carb gasket

2 - 5x25mm allen bolt

2 - 5mm lock washer

1 - fuel line w/grommet - 35cc only

2 - 5x50mm allen bolt - 40cc only

2 - 5mm flat washer - 40cc only

2 - 5mm lock washer - 40cc only

What tools you will need:

Phillips screwdriver

4mm allen wrench

11/32” drill bit—35cc only

Basics:

High speed (black screw in side of carb) setting 1-3/4 turns open from all the

way in

Low speed (black screw at top of carb) setting 1 turn open from all the way in

Turning the high or low speed in is leaner, which gives the engine less fuel.

Too lean on the high speed can result in a piston seizure at high rpm. Too

lean on the low speed will result in hesitation during acceleration. Too rich

(screw out to far) will result in gurgling and/or a fouled spark plug.

Read instructions completely through before installing!



Stalker Air Filter Instructions 
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CONTROLLER INSTALLATION GUIDE 
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CONTROLLER INSTALLATION GUIDE

 

Make sure you have the following items in your kit:


Controller

Wiring Harness with Charging Port

And Battery Wiring Harness

On/Off Switch

Variable Throttle Assembly

Brake Lever with wire (optional)

Velcro

Wire Connector w/ 2 Terminal Ends


 

1. UNPLUG BATTERY! Remove the Old (original) Controller as well as the On/Off Switch and Charging Port and the connecting wires.

 

2. Next Remove the Throttle and Brake Assemblies, making sure to clip the plastic ties holding the wires along the handlepole and frame. You should now have only the 2 bare batteries (no wires attached) and the motor in your frame.

 

3. Install the new throttle and brake assemblies on the handlebars. Run the wires down to the controller area.

 

4. Mount the new controller in the same place as the old controller with Velcro or two face tape.

 

5. Plug the Throttle and Brake wires into the PC Board.  Brake is marked “inhibitor”.

 

6. Choose a place for the new ON/OFF switch and mount it. Make sure to secure it with screws, Velcro, zip ties or two face tape. Plug the new ON/OFF switch into the wiring harness using the pair of double connectors.  Leave in OFF position. Tape the bare connectors so they cannot touch anything metal.

 

7. Mount the new Charging Port in a secure location using the 2 screw holes. This will vary depending on your model scooter. This is usually already attached to the wiring harness.  Try to use the same location as the old port.

 

8. The motor may use a different plug than the one on the new controller – If your motor has a different plug, please use the wire terminal ends included. Connect the blue wire to the blue wire and the white wire to the green wire. Plan ahead as you put the wires into the plastic plugs. See Wire Terminal End Replacement Instructions on the last page

 

9. Use the new red and black wires to connect the batteries

Red from connector plug to POS on battery #1

Black from connector plug to NEG on battery #2

Separate Black wire from NEG on battery #1 to POS on battery #2

 

10. Plug the RED Connector from the controller to the RED Connector on the wiring harness. Make sure switch is OFF and all plugs and connectors are together and in place.

 

 

11. Now plug the Black connector plug from batteries to the black connector plug from the wiring harness. Your Installation is complete

 

BladeZ Scooters 1-904-724-9700


Check Throttle and Brake Operation

 Throttle Operation

fig 1.

 

The speed of the scooter is controlled by a grip twist throttle. To check the throttle operation, turn the power switch to the “OFF” position. Fully twist the throttle then quickly release it. The throttle is spring loaded and should immediately spring back to its original (also know as “Zero Position) position.

 

To accelerate, twist the right hand throttle grip towards you as you stand on the deck plate. The more you twist the throttle, the faster the motor will propel the scooter until you reach the scooter’s top speed.

 

To go slower, or coast to a slower speed, allow the throttle to spring back to

its original position. To decelerate or come to a complete stop, release the

throttle and allow it to return automatically to its original position. Then squeeze

the brake lever(s) to activate the brake(s). Remember to release the throttle

whenever you apply the brake.

 

The throttle and its components are fully assembled and tested at the factory. Do not attempt to adjust them at any time. If you feel the throttle and/or components are in need of service DO NOT RIDE THE SCOOTER! Contact

 

Brake Operation

fig 2.

 

The Electro-Drive™ electric scooter is equipped with front and/or rear brakes. It is operated by using the brake lever on the handlebars and is designed to provide excellent stopping power for your scooter. Squeeze the brake lever(s) firmly to bring your scooter to a safe, controlled stop

 

The brake lever itself should never touch the handlebar or grip when squeezed firmly. If it does, then immediately STOP RIDING and adjust the brake cable. All brakes need periodic adjustment. However, the brake mechanism itself should be adjusted only by a qualified service technician. If or when it needs service, take your scooter to your local bicycle dealer or to the retailer who sold you the scooter. Improper adjustment of your brake(s) can cause poor braking and lead to an accident, serious rider injury or

death.

 

Brake Cable Adjustment

If your brake cable stretches (as is common with new cables do during the initial “breaking-in” period), your brake lever will require a longer “pull”  to engage the brake and may even touch the handlebar when squeezed.  Use the adjusting barrel on the brake lever to adjust for this cable stretch. Loosen the adjusting barrel lock nut. Unscrew the adjusting barrel out of the lever 1 to 2 turns, then re-tighten the lock nut to secure the adjusting barrel. Do not allow the adjusting barrel to unscrew more than 5 full rotations out of the brake lever.

WIRE TERMINAL END CONNECTION REPLACEMENT

 

Make sure the batteries are disconnected before working on any wires

A good video on this is located here:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJtzN3OIFSA

 

Stripping wire is a simple task if you have the right tools. You will need some type of a stripper tool like one of these. They are readily available for around $10.00 at almost all hardware stores.

 

  1. First cut off the plastic plug at the end of your blue and white motor wires
  2. Next strip back about ½” of the outer wire coating.
    1.  Insert the wire into the proper slot (if your tool has slots) for the size wire you are stripping (or adjust the screw on the stripper for the size of the wire).
    2. With the wire at a slight angle, press the handles of the stripper together.
    3. Gently rock the stripper blades back and forth;
    4. when the insulation has been cut through, pull it off in one fluid, fast motion 

  1. Now take one of the two silver pins and slide it on the bare metal part of one of the wires. Use the part of the tool that does not cut to crimp or clamp down on the silver pin and attach it to the wire. Do the same for the other wire
  2. BE SURE TO LINE UP THE BLUE WIRE with the proper side of the plastic connector to match the BLUE WIRE on the connector coming from the controller
  3. Slide the plastic connector over the 2 metal pins

 

If you don’t have the proper tool, do not feel comfortable doing any of this or just feel you want a soldered on connection for a longer life and better connection, take the plastic plug and your scooter to any Hobby shop and they can do it for you in just a few minutes.

 

 

Alternate Method of Stripping: The fastest and easiest way is to just take a lighter to it for a second, let it cool for a second, and strip it off with your fingernails. It works very well.


Placement of ON/OFF SWITCH and CHARGING PORT

 

If you are trying to decide where to mount these 2 items, an easy way to do it is to zip tie them to the headset bracket just above the folding handle.

 

There are 2 rubber/foam pieces that go on top of your batteries. You can snip a small piece of the rubber/foam and use it to space the ON/OFF Switch away from any metal – then just zip tie it to the inside of the metal grid work of the headset bracket. Make sure the connectors are covered with good quality electrical tape.



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